A Mediterranean garden. Incidentally, this does not necessarily mean an arid garden with desert plants.

There is an enormous quantity of plants that are native to Mediterranean climates. Other such plants grow in the Americas, Europe and the Far East, and have the ability to adapt to harder, drier conditions. There are four main areas in the world that have these similar conditions: Australia, South Africa, California, Mexico, and of course, the Mediterranean basin. Nevertheless, plants from such areas look beautiful in almost any part of the world, and have the unique advantage of low-maintenance.

Hundreds of new plants have been introduced, with amazing success at that. Plants with different types of growth, leaf forms and colors have been found suitable to the Cypriot drip system of irrigation. Most plants native to Cyprus have actually had difficulties growing with this system, as they are not used to getting water during the dry season.

Some exceptions are: (photos will be replaced later)

Lauros nobilis,

Viburnum tinus,

Myrtus communis,

Plantanus orientalis,

Quercus calliprinus,

Pistacia lentisus,

P. atlantica,

Styrax officinalis,

Olea europea,

Fraxinus syriaca,

Nerium oleander,

Vitex agnus-castus,

Retama raetam,

Spartium junceum,

Cercis siliquastrum.

Today there is rising competition among growers to introduce increasingly new and attractive plants. Certainly all gardeners, professional and amateur, can benefit from this fact.

Most of these Mediterranean plants are defined by a short flowering season. However, since they come from different parts of the world, they flower in here at different times of the year. For example, plants from Australia will flower in Cyprus in the winter. Plants from the Americas flower here mainly in autumn and summer. As a result, well-planned gardens can provide beautiful flowers throughout almost the entire year.

Nevertheless, it remains that gardens still need some basic evergreen plants to “cover” other plants in their flowering season. Additionally, they are also of paramount importance as not to spend all of one’s free time working in the garden instead of simply enjoying it

Sunflowers (although difficult to fit in a garden)

Geraniums (especially red)

Laurel (as a hedge)

Hibiscus (I don’t think that is really mediterranean but it fits well with the others, as does gardenia)

Of the above the ones I wouldn’t do without are geraniums, citrus trees basil and bougainvilleas.

A lot of mediterranean climate plants from South Africa, Australia, California and Chile are already part of the “look” of a classic mediterranean garden, even in Europe. Geraniums and Pelargoniums, Strelitzia, Coleonema, many of the Aloes, bulbs such as Agapanthus, Freesias, Babianas, etc. all come from South Africa. Australia has given us many beautiful plants as well, from Callistemons and Melaleucas to Dianella, Grevilleas, etc. South America has contributed many plants that are actually subtropical, but thrive in warmer mediterranean climates, such as Bougainvillea, Jacaranda, Chorisia, Schinus molle, etc. California contributes many beautiful natives such as our Ceanothus, Arctostaphylos, Fremontodendron, Quercus agrifolia, Washingtonia filifera, Toyon, etc. The Canary Islands have also contributed many beautiful species such as Aeoniums and Sonchus.

I suppose the classic mediterranean landscape would feature only those plants native to the geographic Mediterranean basin, such as Olives, rosemary, lavenders, myrtle, phlomis and many of the others already mentioned. Certain non-native plants have insinuated themselves into the fabric to seem native, such as Bougainvillea and geraniums, and perhaps Jacaranda. My own idealized mediterranean landscape would include many more South African and Australian proteaceous plants such as Proteas, Leucadendrons, Leucospermums, Grevilleas, Isopogons, Banksias, and succulents from around the world, especially the Agaves, Echeverais and Sedums of Mexico. I also love gardening with new world species such as bromeliads,(Aechmeas, Billbergias, Neoregelias, Dyckias, Puyas, Vrieseas), and epiphytic cacti such as Rhipsalis, so many of which are perfectly adaptable to limited water gardens here in coastal California.`

A few plants I wouldn’t be without include Protea ‘Pink Ice’, Grevillea ‘Superb’, Tabebuia chrysotricha, Chorisia speciosa, Otatea acuminata var aztectorum, Elegia capensis, Leucospermum cordifolium, Isopogon formosus, Senecio mandraliscae, Aeonium undulatum Echeveria imbricata and E. agavoides, and Achmea recurvata varieties.

Bougainvillea
Hibiscus rosa sinensis
Pelargoniums
Geraniums
Laurus nobilis
Myrtus
Strelitzia
Roses
Nerium Oleander
Lonicera
Lantana
Citrus trees
Olives trees
Vitis vinifera
Phoenix canariensis
Pinus
Ipomea
Tagetes
Basil
Erica
Rosemary
Lavenders

Begin by designing the area you’d like to Dryscape. Using a piece of paper, draw out the areas you have to plant in and the space available. Some things to remember:

1. Put trees at points in the landscaping where their shade and root system will not damage or hinder the growth of other plants.

2. Put tall shrubs and annuals or perennials at the back of a planting area.

3. Keep in mind the mature size of your trees, plants, and shrubs, and don’t overcrowd an area.

4. Even though the plants are “drought tolerant,” they still need some water. Plan ahead if you intend to put in a drip irrigation system.

PREPARE YOUR SOIL

Depending on where you live, you will most likely need to amend your soil before planting. If you have sandy soil, you’ll need to add compost to help the soil hold water and minerals. If you have loamy soil, you are probably in pretty good shape although many drought tolerant plants grow better in soils of clay or sand. You can either turn over the entire area in which you’ll be planting, or dig sizable holes directly into the spaces you’ll be planting, and then backfill those holes with a mix of compost and your native soil. The latter is the easiest way to go, but not always the best. Be certain to mix in a small amount of either organic or granulated fertilizer into each hole.

Once you have designed your layout and prepared the soil, it’s time to choose your plants. Drought tolerant plants can be clustered or spaced out, depending on the gardener’s taste. You will want to pay attention to each plant’s water requirements, and group plants together that have similar watering needs. You wouldn’t want to put cactus in close proximity with lantana, verbena, or a deep watered tree. The following is a short list of drought tolerant plants that do well in arid climates.

PLANTS

Ponytail Palm, beaucarnea recurvata (nolina)

Beaucarnea recurvata

Aloe arborescens,The Krantz Aloe

Sempervivum arenaria,rocky houseleek

Aloe nobilis,Gold Tooth Aloe

Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’

Cannas

ornamental Strelitzia (bird of paradise)

MULCHING

You will want to increase the effectiveness of your drought tolerant plants by mulching. Mulching reduces even further the amount of watering you’ll need to do by holding in moisture at the base of the plants. It also helps to keep the soil cool, or warm, depending on where you live. Mulching layers should be approximately two to three inches thick around the base and root growth area of the plant. You can use shredded bark, leaves, aged wood chips, dry grass, or rock. Rock is a great choice for Xeriscape gardening, but it does heat up rapidly in warm climates; don’t place it right up against the base of new plants.

WATERING

If you use a drip irrigation system, you’ll have to set your timer and watch the plant closely to judge if it is receiving enough water at the intervals you have programmed. If you are watering your drought tolerant garden by hand, you’ll need to be attentive to the climate and/or changes in weather, and water only when your plants are in need of a drink. How do you tell that? The best way is to take a trowel and break up the soil about three inches deep around the plant or in a bed. If it is dry at three inches, it’s time to water. You can also tell by looking at your plant. If it’s in need of moisture, leaves or stems will slightly wilt or curl, and leaf edges will become dry on some trees and shrubs. Be attentive! Always water to a depth of three inches, but don’t flood a planting bed. If you have run off, you’ll know you watered too much, so adjust the water level accordingly for next time. It’s always best to water at ground level, and don’t forget to deep water trees at least once every two to three weeks.

Dryscaping can reduce the water that conventional gardens require, and dryscapes are a beautiful, economical choice in today’s times of water conservation.

Use drought-tolerant plants - Correctly planted and maintained, once established after a year or two Mediterranean natives do with the natural winter rain in response to their yearly, prolonged dry season, going dormant when the climate turns hot and dry. Mostly evergreen, Mediterranean natives have attractive flowers.

Reduce the lawn - A main element of temperate gardening, grass areas are often automatically used in Mediterranean climates where they are the most water and labour intensive landscape element around. One of the key ingredients of water-saving gardens is minimal lawn area. Use alternatives like paving or compact-growing succulents or vines.

Group plants for water needs - You will achieve important savings in water if you divide your garden into areas with high, medium and low water requirements, according to the specific needs of the plants.

Plan water management - You may not see real rain for years, but when it comes, it can be destructive, washing away your garden’s fertile soil. When considering irrigation, use efficient equipment. Old-fashioned sprinklers often emit more water than dry summer soils absorbs. Drip systems can achieve up to 50 percent savings in water supply.

Use water-saving practices - Keep shade plants in the shade, water-loving ones at the bottom of slopes or adjacent to lawns. Grouping plants together creates micro-environments for moisture retention, shades the ground, protects small plants from drying winds. When planted in early autumn, root systems adjust over humid mild winters and plants often enter the summer drought period already well-established.

Acacia

When evergreen mimosa (their common name, not Mimosa) flower in winter, they are a dream come true. Requirements are a somewhat acid soil, perfect drainage, sunniest position. Soft growth, encouraged by over-watering or fertilizing, is liable to wind damage. Useful as rapid, soil-binding cover. Prune after flowering, even severely, for compact growth.

Aloe arborescens
aloe

Succulent, drought-tolerant aloe is among the least demanding plants grown in Mediterranean climates, but good drainage is essential. Practically maintenance-free, aloes happily cover difficult areas.

Calendula officinalis
marigold

The good-natured, annual marigold, useful in new or in beginners’ gardens, cheerfully flowers all year with little water in any sunny soil.

Callistemon
bottle-brush

Evergreen, drought-tolerant bottle-brushes like well-drained, sandy soils in sun.

Chamaerops humilis
mediterranean fan palm

The only palm native the European continent, it grows in sandy or rocky soils in full sun or dappled shade from seashores to high altitudes. It even tolerates snow. Single-trunked or in clumps, it slowly reaches 4 metres, in gardens occasionally more. Amber inedible fruits follow creamy spring inflorescences. Leaf petioles are spiny.

Cistus
rock rose

In sun, spring bloom covers rounded, evergreen shrubs, which thrive in adverse conditions of poor, stony soils in regions dry in summer. Fibrous shallow roots are good for erosion control, but drainage and mulch are vital. Pampered plants do not live long.

Cordyline australis
cabbage tree

This evergreen rosette plant with sword-like leathery leaves and scented, creamy flower panicles in early summer, grows single-trunked to 2 - 3 metres, from where branching starts. Appreciates sunny locations, deep soil, ample mulch and summer watering.

Coreopsis
coreopsis

Useful, drought-tolerant annuals or evergreen perennials with summer to autumn bloom, mostly yellow. Cutting down after bloom gives a second flush of flowering. These plants suit coastal gardens with well-drained light, sandy soil in full sun.

Eucalyptus ficifolia
red-flowering gum

The evergreen, drought-tolerant gum species are legion. Juvenile leaves often differ from mature ones. Best in deep sandy soils and full sun with good air circulation. Eucalyptus tolerates short-term frost, more so with age. Highly appreciated for fast growth, some trees increase 2 metres a year. Select carefully, little comes up below their canopy.

Freesia refracta
freesia

Well-known freesia delights passers-by with exquisitely scented spring bloom. Plant corms 5 centimetre deep in porous, well-drained garden soil in a raised bed in well-aerated, sunny location to keep flowers dry. Leave to bake in summer.

Hakea
pincushion tree

Easy evergreen pincushion trees with attractive winter or spring flowers suit many difficult conditions. They tolerate poor, dry soils, coastal wind and salt spray, inland heat or cold. They require good drainage, as do most drought-tolerant plants. If conditions suit them too well, several may turn invasive, requiring careful control.

Kniphofia
red hot poker

The flowers of this perennial stand torch-like above slender tufted leaves. Tuberous roots like an open sunny aspect, humus-rich soil, excellent drainage and ample mulch. Clumps increase gradually until crowded. Divisions flower the second year.

Laurus nobilis
sweet bay, true laurel

The aromatic sweet bay may reach tree-size, but shrubby 3 - 6 metres are more likely. Shiny leathery leaves of kitchen merit are typical of hard-leaved evergreen woodlands. It tolerates coastal conditions, but appreciates mulch and well-drained soil in sun or shade.

Lavatera maritima
tree mallow

Easy lavatera tolerates poor summer-dry soils. Invaluable in coastal gardens and among rock. Light pink flowers arise from grey felted leaves.

Lonicera, most
honeysuckle

Mostly undemanding climbers in full sun or half shade, often scented. All have wide temperature tolerances, varying water demands and transplant readily.

Phoenix canariensis
canary date palm

The magnificent wide-spreading canary date palm is very drought-tolerant once established. Although slow growing, it ultimately reaches 9 - 12 metres. It assumes its architectural role the moment it is planted.

Phormium tenax
new zealand flax

An easy evergreen perennial, appreciated for its giant, sword-like leaves. Towering flower stalks, magnificent silhouettes against a blue Mediterranean sky, carry red to yellow flower clusters. Any mulched soil will suit.

Quercus ilex
holm oak

The evergreen holm oak in times past covered most Mediterranean lands. They grow in small stands on northern slopes, with age spreading 15 - 20 metres, wider than tall. Near-horizontal branches on oldest trees carry an enormous weight. Roots go deep and spread widely. Holm oaks grow on poor even rocky soil, gradually enriching it with decaying foliage.

Rosmarinus officinalis
rosemary

An often-used Mediterranean native, the aromatic rosemary is variable. From autumn to early spring in the wild you will find many flower shades, also pink or white. Rosemary is never a problem, if planted on hot sunny ground, sharply drained soil.

Deep percolation, where water moves below the root zone, can occur if a drip system is operated for too long of a duration. Drip irrigation methods range from very high-tech and computerized to low-tech and relatively labor-intensive. Lower water pressures are usually needed than for most other types of systems, with the exception of low energy center pivot systems and surface irrigation systems, and the system can be designed for uniformity throughout a field or for precise water delivery to individual plants in a landscape containing a mix of plant species. Although it is difficult to regulate pressure on steep slopes, pressure compensating emitters are available, so the field does not have to be level. High-tech solutions involve precisely calibrated emitters located along lines of tubing that extend from a computerized set of valves. Both pressure regulation and filtration to remove particles are important. The tubes are usually black (or buried under soil or mulch) to prevent the growth of algae and to protect the polyethylene from degradation due to ultraviolet light. But drip irrigation can also be as low-tech as a porous clay vessel sunk into the soil and occasionally filled from a hose or bucket. Subsurface drip irrigation has been used successfully on lawns, but it is more expensive than a more traditional sprinkler system. Surface drip systems are not cost-effective (or esthetically pleasing) for lawns and golf courses.

Subirrigation

Used in commercial greenhouse production, usually for potted plants, water is delivered from below, absorbed upwards, and the excess collected for recycling. Typically, a solution of water and nutrients floods a container or flows through a trough for a short period of time, 10-20 minutes, and is then pumped back into a holding tank for reuse. Subirrigation requires fairly sophisticated, expensive equipment and management. Advantages are water and nutrient conservation, and labor-saving through lowered system maintenance and automation. It is similar in principle and action to subsurface drip irrigation. The same concept of subsurface flooding and drainage is also being experimented with as an outdoor subirrigation method.

However, the Mediterranean basin is a reservoir for warmth. Locations near the sea reduce the range between lowest and highest temperatures. Thus gardens enjoy more temperate climates the nearer they are to the sea. Summers are not as hot as a few miles inland and winters are spared several degrees of cold. Altitude reduces highs and lows, both in summer and in winter.

The characteristic blue Mediterranean skies give this region the highest solar radiation and light intensities on earth. Almost all are more than your plants need and thus challenge plants’ survival. Mean monthly hours of sunshine in January average 151, in July 366 hours.

Rain, rare in summer, generally begins around early autumn and continues into winter and spring. Occasionally, torrential rain may drop 100 mm in 24 hours. Snow, hail or even frost at high altitudes or in frost pockets. However, extended periods of drought with sunshine occur during what is considered the rainy winter season. Mean monthly rainfall ranges from 1 millimetre in July to 64 in October.